Digital Wanderer

We live as long as we fly

Israel — 6, day 4, climbing mountains with a bike on my shoulders in the Tsin Valley

The next morning I had breakfast thanks to the kindness of Vartan, who left me some food, and rolled around the surroundings of  Sde Boker, thanks to the kindness of Mike and his friend, who had put together a route for me.

In the morning I quickly dropped by the grave of Ben Gurion and his wife, took a look at what the college town looks like in the light of day, and off I went.

 

A light brown ibex with long curved horns looks straight at the viewer, standing on dry ground next to a tree trunk.

Wild animals roam around, but since they are allowed everything, they aren't afraid of humans at all

A spine-shaped sculpture lies on dry ground in front of a road with parked cars. Trees with sparse foliage and light buildings under a clear sky are visible in the background.

A large light stone with a transparent plaque inscribed in Hebrew and English with the name "The Ben-Gurion Research Institute for the Study of Israel and Zionism" of Ben-Gurion University of the Negev, standing on green grass. In the background, modern buildings with angular roofs, trees, a paved path, and a partially visible parked bicycle can be seen.

Studying Israel and Zionism

An info poster with text in Hebrew and an image of two orange footprints, mounted on metal posts amidst a rocky terrain with sparse trees and a fence in the background.

They swiped the “Snowdrop” logo!

 

I descended into the Tsin Valley down an asphalt switchback. Now with video blogging!

 

Download mp4 video

 

A vast arid landscape consisting of many rolling hills and rugged valleys in shades from beige to light brown. Sparse bushes and rockier soil are visible in the foreground, while the horizon fades into a light haze.

Here it is, the valley itself

A large beige-brown information board with camping rules in English, Hebrew, and Arabic located against a backdrop of a dry, rocky desert with sparse bushes and high beige mountains under a blue sky.

A campsite down below, rules in three languages

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The road starts off very decently

A dry riverbed, strewn with light stones and pebbles, stretches across an arid terrain with sparse bushes along the banks and rolling mountains in the background.

But gradually we realize why it's only allowed for off-road vehicles

A wide rocky bed of a dried river with sparse bushes. In the background, light, rugged mountains rise under a clear blue sky.

Because in places it runs right along the dried-up riverbed

A dirt sandy road goes up a dry hill under a clear blue sky. Sparse dry vegetation is visible along the edges of the road.

With such a gradient you have to work up a sweat, but the best is yet to come!

A dirt road lined with stones on the sides leads across a deserted rocky plain to rolling sandy mountains on the horizon under a clear sky.

Reminds me of Iceland in places, only the colors are different, and there are more rocks

When we were  exchanging phrases the night before with Vartan's buddy Brian, he wondered, why Israel specifically?

I was asked this question countless times: both there and here, by old and young, by friends and brothers. The answer finally crystallized only while visiting Vartan.

Sometimes, minor coincidences, signs and omens converge, and life itself steers you onto the right path. First, my mom's friend from Israel came to visit and invited me over, then I found a cheap plane ticket, and then I learned that a third of the country is a desert popular with rugged tourists. I realized that Israel is somewhat similar to the Iceland I've grown so fond of — with the difficulty of growing edible organics, with the strong character of people who, for the sake of their dream of an independent life, are ready to fight harsh nature to the bitter end. Icelanders, too, had to fight their neighbors and endlessly defend their independence, which the country only gained in the twentieth century.

The Israeli desert is also very similar to the Icelandic tundra, only one lacks water, while the other lacks sun. In both places there are rocks, mountains, lots of nature, and few people, moreover because Iceland is small in population, and Israel is small in area. As for the inhabitants, here, of course, the similarities end — Icelanders are calm,  unhurried, and goal-oriented, while the locals here are southerners, much more emotional and disorganized. Their motto, as Nathan told me on the first day, is “it'll all work out”.

A rocky desert terrain with several vertically standing light stones in the foreground. In the background rises a pointy mountain, and to the right another flat-topped mountain is visible, all under a clear sky.

A wide dirt road crosses a desert landscape with rocky hills on the horizon under a blue sky. In the foreground are several light boulders and a wooden sign with an upward arrow pointing the direction of travel along the road.

A simple road (albeit a steep one) went up, but we don't need to go there, right?

A dry desert valley with a rocky path, surrounded by low hills and sparse bushes. In the foreground, next to the path, a stone with blue-and-white hiking trail markings is visible.

Here is where we need to go — onto a hiking trail that's banned for bicycles

A narrow dirt path leads through a dry desert landscape with scattered bushes. In the background rise rocky mountains and hills, partially covered with white deposits, under a cloudless blue sky.

The beginning is quite tolerable

A desert landscape with a dry rocky riverbed stretching into the distance between dark hills. The bright sun in the upper right corner creates a rainbow lens flare on the surface of the riverbed.

But pretty soon you have to ride on stone slabs

A rocky desert valley with sparse bushes, leading to hills with alternating light and dark rocks under a clear blue sky.

It's hard to even imagine what awaits ahead

A rocky desert trail surrounded by boulders and dry vegetation goes up toward light rocky hills under a blue sky. On one of the boulders to the right of the trail, a blue-and-white hiking trail marker is visible.

It's hard on foot here, let alone on a bike

As a result of an ill-considered, and all the more interesting, decision to turn off, I, as you can see, got into such a mess that I had to lug the bike on my shoulders, in places at such an angle that I couldn't even walk up, and practically slid back down. It seems this was the exact trail Mike recommended for fans of technical extreme downhill, but he warned that a national park ranger with a fine ticket might be waiting at the end. I, true to my habit of not seeking an easy life, tackled the thing from the other end, and instead of a super complicated descent I wound up in an attraction long familiar to my readers: “lug the bike on your shoulders up mountain trails”. As a nice bonus, this time around there wasn't knee-deep snow, like in Montenegro, and no drizzling freezing rain, like in Iceland, but scorching heat and dry dust.

A sprawling view of an arid hilly landscape with deep valleys and flat tops, where light brown and beige slopes with white deposits stretch into the distance under a pale sky.

But what beauty!

A rocky hillside in the desert with sparse dry vegetation under a clear blue sky.

Do you see a trail here? Yet there is one!

A rocky slope of a desert hill with patches of light soil and a scattering of dark rocks under a clear blue sky.

It's a good thing I was without my panniers. I'm afraid with the bags it would have taken me over an hour to walk up here

A panoramic view of a dry canyon with steep eroded slopes of light and dark rocks, dropping into a rocky bottom. In the distance under a blue sky, green farmlands and low hills are visible.

But here we are, the hardships are behind us

A signpost with the inscription "WADI ZAROR" in Hebrew and English is set on a rocky hillside in a desert area under a clear blue sky.

Wide open spaces lie ahead

Along the way I found out what the trail is called (from the sign). A wadi is a dried-up riverbed. Walking through a wadi in winter is quite a risky venture — if a downpour starts, the wadi will be flooded with muddy churning sludge that will sweep you forward, slamming you against the rocks.

A rocky dirt road climbs up a steep desert hillside under a clear blue sky.

But for now it's all easy

A dusty rocky road crosses an arid plain with sparse vegetation, heading off toward the horizon where the hazy outlines of hills can be seen under a bright cloudless sky.

And beautiful

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The “water holes” sign intrigued me, and out of my habit of never missing anything, I turned off

A round entrance to a cave or sinkhole in light dry soil, surrounded by sparse dried branches and bushes. Sunlight brightly illuminates the rocky edges of the depression, while its depth is hidden in darkness.

The holes are not bad, but the cave cities of Crimea are better, so I headed back

A wide gravel path runs through a sunny park. On both sides of the path are multi-level stone terraces overgrown with greenery, and dense trees casting shadows.

The park near Ben Gurion's grave

A massive tombstone made of light stone with a Hebrew inscription in honor of Paula Ben-Gurion. Small stones lie on its surface; behind it are green bushes, a path with a railing, and a mountain landscape under a clear sky.

And the grave itself

It wasn't even noon yet when I returned to Midreshet Ben-Gurion. A curious detail: Hebrew is read from right to left (which gives a lot of headaches to IT guys), but I don't know how to read it, so I don't perceive the combinations of letters as words. And therefore, if you look from left to right out of habit, it seems like the date of death comes first, and then the date of birth. It's as if Jews are all Benjamin Buttons to a man, or they left the pleasant event (birth) for later, the way some people save the tastiest part  for last.

In the midreshet, by the way, is the Ben-Gurion National Solar Energy Center, and next to the town there is a huge field of experimental solar panels, with one of them looking like a massive radio telescope. Israel, as is widely known, exports not only weapons, a useful thing of course, but not a very pleasant one, but also a bunch of other high-tech stuff. In Israel there are tons of companies developing and selling solar panels and other types of equipment for "green" energy; the company Better Place originally hails from Israel, which tried to introduce electric cars with swappable batteries at gas stations, but went bust. As history teaches us, pioneers are far from always able to break through people's mindset and the status quo. But what didn't work out for Better Place is now working out perfectly for Tesla Motors.

On the other hand, the Intel Pentium M processor architecture also hails from Israel, which, if memory serves, served as the foundation for all modern Intel processors. Apparently, Intel's Israeli engineers got so fed up with the constant heat that even in processor development they started fighting it first and foremost, because the main feature of the Pentium M was lower power consumption and heat dissipation initially built right into its design.

A desert landscape with a steep rocky slope, on top of which several low sand-colored buildings and sparse green trees are visible.

A mysterious pipe, dumping sewage or what?

A sprawling desert landscape with rocky slopes in the foreground, eroded hills, and a dry valley in the distance under a clear blue sky.

Farewell, Tsin Valley!

Over the morning I rode 31 km with an elevation gain of 400 meters.  Not too shabby, and there's still the road to Mitzpe Ramon ahead.

The Tsin Valley was really to my liking. Finally, some real biking challenges began! After all, the goal wasn't just to hang around in Israel, but to bomb down winding trails on a bike. Up to this point the roads and views were decent, but still a bit boring. And here at last — a jagged switchback, an insane gradient, small rocks and huge boulders, breathtaking lunar landscapes — everything we love so much about mountain bike touring.